Thwaite to Keld, returning via Muker (approx. 7.5 miles)

Map: Sheet 30 Yorkshire Dales - Northern & Central areas

Start: Thwaite - SD892982 (very limited road parking - we were staying at Kearton Country Hotel - so left the car on their car park. It may be simpler to park at either Keld or Muker, and adapt the walk accordingly).


This walk is based on a description from Frank Duerden's Great Walks in the Yorkshire Dales, ISBN 1860199631.

Easy walking on clear paths and tracks - some gentle uphill, with a steep climb down (and back up) to Kisdon Force.

Thwaite to Kisdon Force (approx. 3 miles)

Yet another walk that started with a morning coffee sat in the sunshine, this time, outside the Kearton Hotel. To start, follow the lane to the right as you are facing the hotel. Then follow Pennine Way signs (sometimes only denoted with an acorn) through gates, gated stiles and over stiles. The path leads you uphill, past Kisdon, then skirts the contours above Swaledale. There are splendid views of the valley, and across to the scars left by lead mining.


After passing a woodland on the right, the Pennine Way descends to meet a path from the left. Shortly after this, there is an unclear finger post poining along a narrow path on the right. Take this path, which leads under some dramatic limestone cliffs, down to Kisdon Force.

Kisdon Force

Kisdon Force - Keld (approx. 0.5 miles)

Re-trace the route from the waterfalls, back to the Pennine Way, then turn right. Where the Pennine Way turns down to the right, continue ahead to Keld, where there is a cafe serving drinks.

Keld - Muker (approx. 3 miles)

From Keld, re-trace the route back to the Pennine Way, and turn left down to the river. Once across the river, leave the Pennine Way, taking the path on the right, which climbs up above West Wood. The path descends to Swinner Gill. Cross the footbridge, and follow the path by the side of the river. Cross the Swale via Ramps Holme Bridge. Take the first path on the left, which crosses some of Muker's famous meadows, via a paved way. Muker has a tearoom (which was closed on the day we visited) and a pub, both situated on the main road.

Muker - Thwaite(approx. 1 mile)

Go back the road behind the pub, turn left, past a row of cottages. At the end of the row, proceed through the gate, to follow the path through more meadows and gated stiles. The path emerges on the road at near at Usha Gap. Turn right along the road, but take the path by the river, rather than following the road across the bridge. This path emerges in Thwaite.

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